305 Gallon Build W/ 120 Gallon Sump

[JK47]

I would love to see some pictures man! I will definitely be installing a drip at this point. Time to research.

I am redoing this soon to clean up the appearance. For now it function over form. The pics:

To control the temperature I use a thermostatic mixing valve (Honeywell model: #AM100C-UPEX-1LF) which lets you set the degrees to a constant temp. You have you splice into hot lines as well off of any hot water source. To splice into the lines, this approach will set you back $200 in parts ($180 of which is the valve) vs $10 with a cold drip. This will replace most watts used by heaters so it pays for itself. You’re a plumber. Help a guy make this look better will ya?!?



Now that we have warm water supply, it gets filtered through a 5 micron sediment filter. This is important because cities will purge systems every so often. This keeps your carbon filters from plugging at that time. Then through x2 Matrix CTO carbon block filters. Two stage to remove chlorine. Make sure to get your municipal water supply annual report to know how they treat. Sometimes it’s chloramine.

If you are on well water this whole step can be skipped all together. I would still do sediment though. No reason not to.





These are all RO fittings and valves from Bulk Reef Supply. This is quality gear. The Home Depot stuff works well. The amazon cheap stuff is horrible. Spend here.

I split x1 line into x4. Each has a 4 GPH (Gallon Per Hour) drip emitter. Since they are RO quick disconnect, they can swap out for lesser GPH emitters in seconds. I replace emitters annually since they are cheap. So with the turn of a sexy valve it goes from 4-16 GPH or any other configuration you like. This is where I left off last night on th 800 setup.



Obviously this design can be improved by someone like yourself but this is my DIY approach that is proven and works. Hope that helps

 

[GoldFinger]

I am redoing this soon to clean up the appearance. For now it function over form. The pics:

To control the temperature I use a thermostatic mixing valve (Honeywell model: #AM100C-UPEX-1LF) which lets you set the degrees to a constant temp. You have you splice into hot lines as well off of any hot water source. To splice into the lines, this approach will set you back $200 in parts ($180 of which is the valve) vs $10 with a cold drip. This will replace most watts used by heaters so it pays for itself. You’re a plumber. Help a guy make this look better will ya?!?

View attachment 1283773

Now that we have warm water supply, it gets filtered through a 5 micron sediment filter. This is important because cities will purge systems every so often. This keeps your carbon filters from plugging at that time. Then through x2 Matrix CTO carbon block filters. Two stage to remove chlorine. Make sure to get your municipal water supply annual report to know how they treat. Sometimes it’s chloramine.

If you are on well water this whole step can be skipped all together. I would still do sediment though. No reason not to.

View attachment 1283774

View attachment 1283775

These are all RO fittings and valves from Bulk Reef Supply. This is quality gear. The Home Depot stuff works well. The amazon cheap stuff is horrible. Spend here.

I split x1 line into x4. Each has a 4 GPH (Gallon Per Hour) drip emitter. Since they are RO quick disconnect, they can swap out for lesser GPH emitters in seconds. I replace emitters annually since they are cheap. So with the turn of a sexy valve it goes from 4-16 GPH or any other configuration you like. This is where I left off last night on th 800 setup.

View attachment 1283776

Obviously this design can be improved by someone like yourself but this is my DIY approach that is proven and works. Hope that helps

Looks awesome I like the manifold at the tank. Pex is hard to make perfectly level and neat without a bunch of clips but it still looks great. I’m still trying to find time to do my homework.

 

[GoldFinger]

Can you guys suggest the best placement of the loclines for my returns, and wave pump? I have one in each corner and will also have a wave pump on one side of the tank (open to getting another one if needed) but am unsure where everything should point? I read 1/2 below water level to reduce back siphoning or just drill a hole but I’d like good circulation and hopefully surface agitation without having to use a bubbler. Thoughts? Here’s a picture of one of the loc lines which I can angle any direction and remove links if needed.
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[JK47]

Can you guys suggest the best placement of the loclines for my returns, and wave pump? I have one in each corner and will also have a wave pump on one side of the tank (open to getting another one if needed) but am unsure where everything should point? I read 1/2 below water level to reduce back siphoning or just drill a hole but I’d like good circulation and hopefully surface agitation without having to use a bubbler. Thoughts? Here’s a picture of one of the loc lines which I can angle any direction and remove links if needed.
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View attachment 1283957

If you drill a hole into the threaded knuckle (on the underside) of it the water will drain to that level when the air breaks the back siphon. You don’t want a siphon break above the water surface or you will have to listen to it spraying all of the time. Make sure you don’t drill the hole into the loc line flex pieces or it risks covering the hole with movement.

This is the most reliable method IMO. Point the returns where ever you like after that.

 

[JK47]

If you do the above make sure you’ve done the math on the water draining to that level in the sump. That will determine your normal operating level.

Another approach is to use a swing (no spring) check valve. These run the risk of failing. I’ve never had one fail and trust quality ones to a high level. It is a mechanical item though...

 

[GoldFinger]

Do you guys use filters of any kind to remove chlorine or an additive? I’m looking into the drip system which led me to RO units which reminded me I haven’t considered what water I will be filling my tank with! Almost everyone will have chlorine in their water unless they have a private well so I can’t be the only poor soul to have asked this question.
I know there are products like “replenish” and seachems “prime” but you would need them for every water change I’m assuming? And if I’m constantly dripping water in then how do I continually treat it without an RO? At this point I will need to add minerals back into the water. I’m hoping again someone else has the magic answer/formula haha.
Please advise if I should post this as a new thread or somewhere else.

 

[Bigfishnut]

Do you guys use filters of any kind to remove chlorine or an additive? I’m looking into the drip system which led my to RO units which reminded me I haven’t considered what water I will be filling my tank with! Almost everyone will have chlorine in their water unless they have a private well so I can’t be the only poor soul to have asked this question.

The picture I posted is what I use for filtration...3 stage. 1st stage is sediment filter, next 2 stages are carbon. I use this for water changes and drip system.

 

[GoldFinger]

The picture I posted is what I use for filtration...3 stage. 1st stage is sediment filter, next 2 stages are carbon. I use this for water changes and drip system.

Ok cool. I noticed JK47 uses carbon filters too I just worry about the water having enough time to make contact with the filters to remove all the potential chlorine. Guess trying and testing is the only way to know. No issues with pH or need to add minerals back in etc? I’m certain my initial fill of the tank and sump will have so much volume that I will require some means of liquid water treatment/additives ...

 

[Bigfishnut]

No need to add anything. pH will not be effected. The carbon filters will remove virtually all the chlorine. I think mine are 5 micron. Don't bother with RO. Way more waste and trouble than it's worth.

 

[GoldFinger]

Ok cool. I noticed JK47 uses carbon filters too I just worry about the water having enough time to make contact with the filters to remove all the potential chlorine. Guess trying and testing is the only way to know. No issues with pH or need to add minerals back in etc? I’m certain my initial fill of the tank and sump will have so much volume that I will require some means of liquid water treatment/additives ...

Bigfishnut you still do water changes on top of a drip system? I’m looking at doing a pvc drain for the sump like the picture I have attached. Any thoughts or better alternatives besides drilling an overflow bulkhead?