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    305 Gallon Build W/ 120 Gallon Sump

    Discussion in 'DIY Projects and Ideas' started by GoldFinger, Nov 8, 2017.

    1. JK47

      JK47 Administrator
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      One if the worst things new hobbiest do is try to alter chemisty like pH, hardness etc.. 80%-90% of the fish available in the hobby do better with consistency over altered and fluctuating water chemistry.

      The only needed thing to change water is a dechlorinator like prime (SeaChem product). A small amount treats a tank rapidly. Great stuff.
       
    2. Bigfishnut

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      Yup. You'll still need to do occasional water changes. I run a 1.5" pvc bulkhead off my sump for the drip drain. I also run a 3/4" bulkhead about 10" off the bottom of the tank to do water changes fast and easy. I set it all up so I can drain and fill just by turning valves. Makes my life very easy!
       
    3. GoldFinger

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      Ok so prime for initial fill and keep on hand for large water change if ever needed. Aside from that I’m plumbing in some carbon block filters and will have those ready to supply my tank for water changes and drip system. How did you determine the rate/gph to set your dripping water? Once I’m plumbed and ready to go I will need to have it filling accordingly so my water is up to monster fish keeper standards
       
    4. GoldFinger

      GoldFinger MFK Members

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      Forgot to ask what is that coil I’m seeing in the sump? Also Are those two pvc lines drains or are you running an external pump for your returns? Looks legit
       
    5. JK47

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      Correct. Add water, dose correct amount for tank, and keep a spare bottle around. It’s a great to have handy especially while cycling tanks. Another benefit of prime is that it converts toxic ammonia into ammonium. Still not great but can help safe some fish. It’s a must have IMO.

      To set the drip amount I start on the high end, keep a close eye on parameters and test often. After a while you gain some trust. After you’ve built a few and know the high and low ends of your system and it’s easy. I have lots of young rays who eat heavily so is better for my needs. I completely trust my systems.
       
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    6. JK47

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      Thanks! Big project.. Stainless has stellar heat transfer properties. Down the road I may want to plumb in a recirculating pump off my hot water heater to use minimal watts in heaters. I don’t have a need right now but won’t have access for a coil later.

      The large PVC are inlets from the sump to the pumps. Union ball valves make swapping out pumps a few minute job. Well worth the cost. Yes external pumps a reeflo hammerhead and dart. Monster setup.
       
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    7. GoldFinger

      GoldFinger MFK Members

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      My hot water is softened and I’d rather not have to run a separate filter to remove sodium and chlorine, so if I just run filtered cold for the drip system will the heaters in my sump be good enough or would this be less efficient? Also, I figured 2gph drip will give me 336 gallons of water changed a week. Including my sump I’ll have roughly 400 gallons of water so that should be more than enough right? Looks like a Home Depot compensating drip emitter is the best option and less likely to plug up or fail.

      https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-gph-compensating-dripper-4-pack.1000143244.html
       
    8. JK47

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      Correct. Make sure you test your home water pressure though. Those emitters are only rated to like 45. I run mine at 55 PSI but regardless you should check yours. AT 2 GPH your heaters will keep up just fine. Ensure you have a heat compensating plan if your temp drops too much from, higher drip rate if you raise it later.
       
    9. twentyleagues

      twentyleagues MFK Members

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      I just got an 8 line emitter from a hydro store handles up to 80psi and each line is .75gph so it' "adjustable" from .75 to 6 gph depending on how many lines you use. Cost was $15. Has 1/2 threads that I adapted to a garden hose attachment.
       
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    10. twentyleagues

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