New tank & cycling parameters

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I skipped about a week of this thread, thought I'd chime in again, whether you like my comments or not
Since your goldfish are only about an inch long, you have plenty of time before they need a bigger tank.
Once they triple in size, that's when you start actual planning, and get your100 gal, or dig a 500 gallon pond..

First you need to get comfortable with your water needs.
Now that you are seeing nitrate (did I read 40 ppm?)
You need to start doing regular water changes to bring it down. This means... doing water changes forever.....i.e. getting a regular water change schedule going.
After you hit your personal nitrate tolerance max goal, you judge your water changes schedule and amount with nitrate and other testing such as pH.
Some people consider 10ppm nitrate tolerable, some 20ppm. Your fish will let you know, if they regularly get sick with HLLE or bloat, at 20ppm nitrate level, maybe that goal isn't right.
My goal is (and has been for about 30 years of my fish keeping) no more than 5 ppm of nitrate.
So if I test the tank, and nitrate is more than 5ppm, (say the color shows 10ppm) I change some water, if after a certain volume its at nay goal, that's sufficient. One of my latest nitrate tests below.
EDBFD24E-5AD9-4680-9D39-4C6296F7BD88_1_201_a.jpeg

Test regularly to determine a pattern. e.g. If it takes 1 week for nitrate to go from 5 to 10ppm, that means to attain my goal I do 1 x a 40% water change per week (forever)
if it only takes 3 days, to go from 5ppm to 10 ppm, that means one water changes every 3 days (again forever).

pH can also help you judge. If you tap water is 7.4, but your tank immediately drops to 6, that means either your water change schedule is lacking, or your mechanical filter media needs cleaning. A drastic drop in pH mean the tank is acidifying(too high a nutrient load for the volume of the tank).
For years I kept log books, they helped me determine what my water change schedules should be.
 
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duanes said:
I skipped about a week of this thread, thought I'd chime in again, whether you like my comments or not
Since your goldfish are only about an inch long, you have plenty of time before they need a bigger tank.
Once they triple in size, that's when you start actual planning, and get your100 gal, or dig a 500 gallon pond..

First you need to get comfortable with your water needs.
Now that you are seeing nitrate (did I read 40 ppm?)
You need to start doing regular water changes to bring it down. This means... doing water changes forever.....i.e. getting a regular water change schedule going.
After you hit your personal nitrate tolerance max goal, you judge your water changes schedule and amount with nitrate and other testing such as pH.
Some people consider 10ppm nitrate tolerable, some 20ppm. Your fish will let you know, if they regularly get sick with HLLE or bloat, at 20ppm nitrate level, maybe that goal isn't right.
My goal is (and has been for about 30 years of my fish keeping) no more than 5 ppm of nitrate.
So if I test the tank, and nitrate is more than 5ppm, (say the color shows 10ppm) I change some water, if after a certain volume its at nay goal, that's sufficient. One of my latest nitrate tests below.
View attachment 1411583

Test regularly to determine a pattern. e.g. If it takes 1 week for nitrate to go from 5 to 10ppm, that means to attain my goal I do 1 x a 40% water change per week (forever)
if it only takes 3 days, to go from 5ppm to 10 ppm, that means one water changes every 3 days (again forever).

pH can also help you judge. If you tap water is 7.4, but your tank immediately drops to 6, that means either your water change schedule is lacking, or your mechanical filter media needs cleaning. A drastic drop in pH mean the tank is acidifying(too high a nutrient load for the volume of the tank).
For years I kept log books, they helped me determine what my water change schedules should be.
Click to expand...
Thanks Duane's! I always need the info, as you said"whether I like it or not". You don't have to like something for it to be true. That's a massive beautiful goldfish! (will have to show to the Fishy Five as proof of their potential) How large was it in the beginning?
I just need to get adept with water changes as needed by testing. I really love these guys & do realize their lives are in my hands.
I do want to get a couple more tanks & still get flowerhorn. Do I need a completely "stable" tank (is there such a thing?) to remove it's media to use in a new tank?
I don't want to endanger these or other fish due to ignorance. I was going to get crushed coral for pH. All that info w/pics is great! Could you send in an email (I have no printer where I am)?
I've got a log started (nurses are used to repeating & recording, so no problem) already.
Thanks to & everyone.
PeaceLoveFish
And good tidings from the Fishy Five
 
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Flowerhorn Gal_AL said:
How large was it in the beginning?
Click to expand...
When I first picked the goldfish up, at a local aquarium club auction, they were about 1", I also bought some 2-3" koi the same day.
Took about 2 years to reach the size above, growing out in a 75 gal tank.

Crushed coral can help buffer acidification on an ongoing basis, but regular frequent water changes are still needed, and the best method.
All tanks will reach a basic equilibrium with regular maintenance, and a stable population.
If you add a number of new fish, or as fish grow, the bacterial population will need to adjust, with growth it responds automatically.
A bunch of new fish added all at once, might be more demanding, and require a temporary immediate upgrade of a water change schedule, until the population of beneficial bacteria adjust.

The amount and volume of water changes for a half dozen 1" fish, are not going to be adequate when those same fish are 6".
For 1" fish, a single water change per week might do, by the time they hit 6" three water changes per week might do, but at 12" a large water change every other day might be necessary.
One other way to slightly help reduce nitrate, is by using plants (aquatic or terrestrial)
With goldfish this may be a challenge because they eat many plants, some people plant Pothos or terrestrial plants in HOB filters, or refugiums.
I liberally plant my tanks with both types, perhaps 3 times or more more plants than fish, this may be why along with every other day water changes, my nitrate concentration is often undetectable.

CBD7DBFB-37F7-4B52-8200-CF019DDCB272_1_201_a.jpeg
D55C93E3-9CF1-411C-AC21-967E7B1E0A37_1_201_a.jpeg
 
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duanes said:
When I first picked the goldfish up, at a local aquarium club auction, they were about 1", I also bought some 2-3" koi the same day.
Took about 2 years to reach the size above, growing out in a 75 gal tank.

Crushed coral can help buffer acidification on an ongoing basis, but regular frequent water changes are still needed, and the best method.
All tanks will reach a basic equilibrium with regular maintenance, and a stable population.
If you add a number of new fish, or as fish grow, the bacterial population will need to adjust, with growth it responds automatically.
A bunch of new fish added all at once, might be more demanding, and require a temporary immediate upgrade of a water change schedule, until the population of beneficial bacteria adjust.

The amount and volume of water changes for a half dozen 1" fish, are not going to be adequate when those same fish are 6".
For 1" fish, a single water change per week might do, by the time they hit 6" three water changes per week might do, but at 12" a large water change every other day might be necessary.
One other way to slightly help reduce nitrate, is by using plants (aquatic or terrestrial)
With goldfish this may be a challenge because they eat many plants, some people plant Pothos or terrestrial plants in HOB filters, or refugiums.
I liberally plant my tanks with both types, perhaps 3 times or more more plants than fish, this may be why along with every other day water changes, my nitrate concentration is often undetectable.

View attachment 1411621
View attachment 1411622
Click to expand...
You read my mind about the plants. I bought Ludwig's arculata but have no idea what to do with them. Only have gravel & bio substrate (cichlid) in bottom. Wondered about frogbit/duckweed. I like the floating stiff, but will they? I still need to read all of your last post. Keep it up tlindsey &duanes!
 
duanes said:
When I first picked the goldfish up, at a local aquarium club auction, they were about 1", I also bought some 2-3" koi the same day.
Took about 2 years to reach the size above, growing out in a 75 gal tank.

Crushed coral can help buffer acidification on an ongoing basis, but regular frequent water changes are still needed, and the best method.
All tanks will reach a basic equilibrium with regular maintenance, and a stable population.
If you add a number of new fish, or as fish grow, the bacterial population will need to adjust, with growth it responds automatically.
A bunch of new fish added all at once, might be more demanding, and require a temporary immediate upgrade of a water change schedule, until the population of beneficial bacteria adjust.

The amount and volume of water changes for a half dozen 1" fish, are not going to be adequate when those same fish are 6".
For 1" fish, a single water change per week might do, by the time they hit 6" three water changes per week might do, but at 12" a large water change every other day might be necessary.
One other way to slightly help reduce nitrate, is by using plants (aquatic or terrestrial)
With goldfish this may be a challenge because they eat many plants, some people plant Pothos or terrestrial plants in HOB filters, or refugiums.
I liberally plant my tanks with both types, perhaps 3 times or more more plants than fish, this may be why along with every other day water changes, my nitrate concentration is often undetectable.

View attachment 1411621
View attachment 1411622
Click to expand...
I know that nothing replaces a good water change!
 
Flowerhorn Gal_AL said:
I know that nothing replaces a good water change!
Click to expand...
And none of mine are koi; all comet. But I see your point. They are very beautiful. I now very much resent the term "feeder fish". LFS employee told my sweet but misguided friend that getting these fish was ideal. "She'll love these! If they die, it won't matter. She'd hate to lose other fish that were beautiful." Really?
That's just crass & rude.
 
Hi! Hope you're all well. Doing another PWC later this morning & think I'm about to be cycled. Have started log book for my tank. : ))as duanes recommended.
I know I need the B&B on the filter media, so how often do I clean that filter? Tank started 1 month ago; also how long for ceramic rings to have B&B on them and be ready to use in another tank?
Just got my 20G long tank & need to set it up; then I'll have the two to test. How long will it last with 2?
Anyway, critical mission today is PWC & please let me know about filter cartridge cleaning. Love & respect from all here in Alabama and from the Fishy Five!
PeaceLoveFish✌??
 
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