48x48 Workhorse "The Rig"

[JK47]

We aren’t trying to be cocky by labeling stuff like this I swear. This tank is supposed to be a workhorse and large flexible QT if needed.

This is in case a family member needs to help.



The pump manifold, UV, aux and heat are done. Ran out of small hose clamps so the 1/2” UV line isnt clamped in yet







Also managed to find some cheap alternatives to the UV mounting brackets. $2.99 on Amazon. OEM parts are $45.

 

[JK47]

Went on a road trip with CrimsonFog to get him a monster 20”+ reticulated knife. Awesome day in the hobby with a good friend and downright badass fish. And even cooler guy that we got it from. This guy and I hit it off well and will have some big things coming in the future

Tomorrow’s list:
-Drill tower for UV to tank
-Drill tower for drip overflow
-UV to tank line
-Rebuild the 3/8” manifold to rotate alita
-Move power supply box back/mount


-Move support nylon strapping to the left to pull the right union ball valve. The current strap pulls right

 

[JK47]

Got the holes drilled in the overflow towers for the UV return as well as the drip overflow.

I decided to use 1/2” union ball valves so the two lines look symmetrical and match the other lines. Came out good IMO.



Both lines are being hidden behind the rear stand uprights.

Left = drip system overflow
Right = UV return line

 

[JK47]

The drip overflow:
1/2” pond hose (silent with K1 vs regular PVC)
I used $0.99 black knitting mesh to cut a K1 screen







It’s cable tied to the air line and eggcrate. Nice way to adjust water level..



UV return:
Left to right, 1/2” pond hose.

 

[JK47]

The 3/8” manifold is redone to make room for the power supply box as well as corrected the support strap.





Temporarily using adjustable cable ties to hold everything in place as we run cables/hoses to hide. These are a must if you’re trying to hide cables. After all lines are ran a final cable tie that is flat and tight pulls it all in.







I would really like to figure something else out for these wires. Not a fan of them dangling like that.

 

[JK47]

Towers are back up and running with 0.8 cubic feet of K1 split between the two towers.

N nzafi It should end up fitting around 1.33 cubic feet. The rest comes from a cycled reactor.



The drip overflow is mounted in the top right corner of the tower. It sets the water level at the overflow teeth.




Not sure if you can tell in the pic of not but we had to pull the hoses and reverse the bend to the other side. K1 was stacking up in the side view.

 

[deeda]

View attachment 1311554

I would really like to figure something else out for these wires. Not a fan of them dangling like that.

What about using a couple clamps, hooks or similar to swing the cord loops up and mount them to the plywood under the tank? They won't be dangling and depending on what you use, you should be able to easily remove them for servicing.

 

[JK47]

What about using a couple clamps, hooks or similar to swing the cord loops up and mount them to the plywood under the tank? They won't be dangling and depending on what you use, you should be able to easily remove them for servicing.

Thank you for the suggestion. I gave up and ordered another power supply box. I'll run the main cords behind the pump where the heater is. The under stand power supply will get remounted and straightened out. No cords visible at all that way and much less effort.

 

[deeda]

Sounds good!

What about getting some C-channel and mounting it to the rear legs of the stand to route hose or wires instead of using zip ties? Painted the same color as the stand might look and work well.

I remember at work we used a similar product to runs wires and flexible air/water lines and they had a snap in cap/cover. I think they were called wire raceways.

 

[JK47]

Sounds good!

What about getting some C-channel and mounting it to the rear legs of the stand to route hose or wires instead of using zip ties? Painted the same color as the stand might look and work well.

I remember at work we used a similar product to runs wires and flexible air/water lines and they had a snap in cap/cover. I think they were called wire raceways.

Another great suggestion, thanks Dee! My IT guy at work is going to help me track down the part numbers of some of that stuff for a different tank. We use it or a similar product in cubicles I guess.

I ended up going a slightly different route because I had second thoughts of anything electrical on the outer perimeter of the tank. I’m confident in what I’ve done but we did have to repair it after all. From a risk mitigation standpoint I gotta work off the numbers and move it to the center of the stand.