I went with the NLS floating. I'll update after a few feedings to see how much he likes it. Plan on using that for staple and red parrot+ occasionally too.Just go with the floating
I went with the NLS floating. I'll update after a few feedings to see how much he likes it. Plan on using that for staple and red parrot+ occasionally too.Just go with the floating
I went with the NLS floating. I'll update after a few feedings to see how much he likes it. Plan on using that for staple and red parrot+ occasionally too.
Please let us know how it goes regarding floating.I went with the NLS floating. I'll update after a few feedings to see how much he likes it. Plan on using that for staple and red parrot+ occasionally too.
Thank you!I fed NLS floating formula to one of my midas for years. I think my FH all ate sinking formulas, but it's been years and I honestly don't recall. Floating, sinking, nutrition wise it won't make any difference.
The ultra red is $40 and floating is $22. Ultra red is 300g floating is 350g.
Im going to roll with these nls floating as the staple and blood red parrot+ as side. See how that goes for now.If it makes any difference, you can find ultrared for cheap online, I got 300gm for $28 on ebay.
Not necessarily. Water changes are dictated by bio-load, so what one feeds, and how much, and how many fish are in a specific volume of water, will be the deciding factor regarding water changes. A local breeder of 40 or so odd years did 50% weekly water changes, once he stopped feeding beef heart. As he said, warm water + beef = beef soup.
The fish below were some of his last Stendker discus that he was raising out on 50% weekly water changes, 100% pellets, before his untimely death. RIP Don.
View attachment 1399070
View attachment 1399072
View attachment 1399075