Leaking tank please help

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Get some acetone. Scrape all the silicone off until all there is is a smudge left on the glass. Dab a rag with the acetone and wipe off the smudgy silicone.

If you're not doing so already, wear some gloves. I've suffered some pretty nasty injuries from sharp edges on glass.
I don’t have any gloves available at the moment so I’ve gotten maybe 1 or two cuts but nothing to cry about. Thank you for the acetone advice. I’m currently on the last panel with big clumps and bits of silicone so after this one I’ll get the acetone out
 
I’ve finished 2 almost 3 of the panels but I can still see in a couple of spots where the residue was. I’m not able to get it out with acetone or razor blades. It’s hardly anything but does it matter?
 
I’ve finished 2 almost 3 of the panels but I can still see in a couple of spots where the residue was. I’m not able to get it out with acetone or razor blades. It’s hardly anything but does it matter?

Wipe it with the acetone and wait a little while. After some time it should wipe out with a bit of elbow grease.

Get all the silicone off even the smudgy stuff. Ideally you want every square millimeter of glass available to make a reliable seam.

When you build a tank, think of the silicone seams and seals as a one piece "gasket". You can get 99% of the seams perfect but if you leave a gap somewhere you will have a bad seam which will leak and the whole thing must be done over again (as you are finding out now). Any remnants of old silicone will leave a gap somewhere in the seam.
 
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Wipe it with the acetone and wait a little while. After some time it should wipe out with a bit of elbow grease.

Get all the silicone off even the smudgy stuff. Ideally you want every square millimeter of glass available to make a reliable seam.

When you build a tank, think of the silicone seams and seals as a one piece "gasket". You can get 99% of the seams perfect but if you leave a gap somewhere you will have a bad seam which will leak and the whole thing must be done over again (as you are finding out now). Any remnants of old silicone will leave a gap somewhere in the seam.
What should the glass look like after there’s no silicone residue left. I have all 5 panels wiped down several times and scraped several times and this is what the last bit looks like. image.jpg
 
What should the glass look like after there’s no silicone residue left. I have all 5 panels wiped down several times and scraped several times and this is what the last bit looks like. View attachment 1464275

That is still smudgy. Needs more wiping until it's clear like the rest of the glass.

I actually cheat when doing this and use an orbital sander with 220 grit pads to clean off the smudge. If you have something like this available, use it, just be careful not to crack the edges or heat up the glass too much.
 
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It will look like...clean glass. That's it. The film of old silicone you show in that pic, if not removed, will negate all the work you have done by causing either tank failure (if it extends into the seam) or possibly a leak (if it is just under the bead). You keep asking how can you tell if the glass is clean, how to tell if the silicone is gone, is this good enough, etc. Come on...you know that's not clean. Clean is...clean.

And, although I am aware that repairing this tank is an emergency of the highest magnitude...I would strongly suggest that you get some rubber or latex gloves before working with acetone. A 15-second google search reveals that acetone...and other solvents like mineral spirits, xylene, toluene, etc. "may" help to soften cured silicone. Interesting bit of info, didn't know that. But...please remember that these are dangerous substances, contact with which can cause a variety of chronic and acute medical problems. Using them safely demands proper gloves and a well-ventilated work area, or preferably a respirator.

Don't work with bare hands. This is not one of the stupid things you do because it's also exciting. It is just a stupid thing to do, period.

Glass can be gotten completely silicone-free with the use of a razor blade, and perhaps some emery cloth on the edges. It sounds like you have already done almost all the hard work already. If you must do this RIGHT NOW, you should be able to finish the job the same way. But, if you insist on going the solvent route, please do yourself a favour and do it safely. If that means waiting a day or two for a pair of heavy gloves for working with glass, or latex gloves for using solvent...then wait.
 
It will look like...clean glass. That's it. The film of old silicone you show in that pic, if not removed, will negate all the work you have done by causing either tank failure (if it extends into the seam) or possibly a leak (if it is just under the bead). You keep asking how can you tell if the glass is clean, how to tell if the silicone is gone, is this good enough, etc. Come on...you know that's not clean. Clean is...clean.

And, although I am aware that repairing this tank is an emergency of the highest magnitude...I would strongly suggest that you get some rubber or latex gloves before working with acetone. A 15-second google search reveals that acetone...and other solvents like mineral spirits, xylene, toluene, etc. "may" help to soften cured silicone. Interesting bit of info, didn't know that. But...please remember that these are dangerous substances, contact with which can cause a variety of chronic and acute medical problems. Using them safely demands proper gloves and a well-ventilated work area, or preferably a respirator.

Don't work with bare hands. This is not one of the stupid things you do because it's also exciting. It is just a stupid thing to do, period.

Glass can be gotten completely silicone-free with the use of a razor blade, and perhaps some emery cloth on the edges. It sounds like you have already done almost all the hard work already. If you must do this RIGHT NOW, you should be able to finish the job the same way. But, if you insist on going the solvent route, please do yourself a favour and do it safely. If that means waiting a day or two for a pair of heavy gloves for working with glass, or latex gloves for using solvent...then wait.
There’s also a few small chips in the glass but they’re only in the area that the black trim would cover and no chips in any spot where water will touch. Going back right now to start scraping again
 
I’m literally going to use my handheld microscope to see if there’s any residue left. ??.
seriously though I got a lot of work to go and plan on being up all night
 
Good morning MFK slept in a bit but I’m back to cleaning glass. Been doing it about an hour today and got 1 panel almost completely cleaned but taking a break because my hand was cramping real bad.
 
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