RedTail Catfish, Endli and Black Ghost Knife Fish advanced version

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Brandybottle;3332568; said:
Ok I dunno what this fish is, planning to buy it and then put it into the large tank cause it seems quite active

right...take that back! its an ID shark which gets to 3-5ft.
id take one of the rtcs back aswell. ur pond is large but when they r fully grown they wont be able to turn around in the pond if it is only 3ft wide when they get to 3-5ft.

tbh go take them back, do research THEN get fish.
u ignorance is astounding. dont come on asking for advice, ignore everything and do what we have advised against.
 
Next, at least I'm doing research on this ID shark... And, I'm going to give the red tail away to some fish farm when it grows too big for a 1.5k gallon pond. Anyway, thanks for IDing the ID shark for me
 
Anyway, I was also wondering what happens when a fish's stomach is swelled or like bloated?
Cause a lot of threads say things like don't buy bloated fish? Is it cause they eat bad stuff? Or because they eat too much?
 
Brandybottle;3336113; said:
Anyway, I was also wondering what happens when a fish's stomach is swelled or like bloated?
Cause a lot of threads say things like don't buy bloated fish? Is it cause they eat bad stuff? Or because they eat too much?

Dropsy of Aquarium Fish
Synonyms:
Bloat, Malawi Bloat

Symptoms:
Protrusion of scales, distended abdomen, pop-eye

Description:
The problem with treating this disease is that there are a number of "potential" causes: parasites, cancerous tumors, excessive protein intake, virus, internal bacterial infections, infrequent water changes or sudden temperature drop of more than 3 degrees leading to damaged body organs.

If the cause is bacterial, the swelling typically comes on pretty rapidly. If swelling is gradual then one or more of the other potential causes are more likely. Unfortunately, treatment is most often useless at this point due to the advanced state of the disease process. When the illness, whatever the cause, has progressed far enough to cause internal swelling, the concomitant internal damage is usually too extensive to be repairable.

Treatment:
Romet B
The latest research has shown that if the disease cause is bacterial and if the disease process is caught early enough, treatment with Romet B, a broad spectrum antibacterial, *may* be effective when used concurrent with an increase in water temperature to 84-86ºF for 2 weeks minimum.

BE CERTAIN to maintain HIGH OXYGEN LEVELS during such treatment since at these temperatures, water holds significantly less oxygen at these higher water temperatures. One of the suspected bacterial precursors to the disease process -- Aeromonas, is killed at these temperatures.

Erythromycin
Feeding foods soaked in ERYTHROMYCIN will kill the second suspected bacteria, Mycobacterium. In rare cases popeye has been found to be caused by Edwardsiella etarda. This is found *only* in fish that have been bred in outdoor ponds -- the functional bacteria in this case is carried by frogs. While fair to good results in treatment have been found by feeding Romet B., even better results have been found using injectable chloramphenicol or amakacin. This is best done by your veterinarian.

If parasites are a known cause, treat for them first for 3 days increasing the temperature to 86ºF as fast as possible.

Epsom Salt
Concurrently add 1/8 teaspoon of EPSOM SALT -- per 5 gallons of water. Epsom salt may help reduce the internal pressure caused by the swelling. Extremely good aeration is necessary here due to the use of such high temperatures.

NEVER USE SALT (sodium chloride, a.k.a. aquarium salt) for treatment of dropsy. This will KILL your fish in a very short time. The affected fish are already having a difficult time getting rid of salts due to kidney dysfunction. This causes the blown up appearance and concurrent scale standing. The osmotic imbalance caused by addition of sodium to your tank water will make this condition far worse.

EPSOM SALT on the other hand, does not pass through the walls of the gut or gills and will extract water OUT of the surrounding tissue into the gut where it *may* be excreted.

Metronidazole
1. Remove carbon/resins from filter.
2. Perform a 30-50% water change (reduces free-floating bacteria population)
3. Add salt (teaspoon to a tablespoon per gallon) to aid the fish's osmotic regulation processes.
4. Treat with 250mg/20gallons of Metronidazole (Flagyl)
5. Leave for 3 days and do not feed.
6. After 3 days, perform another large water change.
7. Replace the salt.
8. Add full dosage of Metronidazole.
9. Wait another 3 days. During this phase, the bloat should be decreasing in appearance. In large fish, the water may take on an ammonia odor from the high volume of urea the fish should now be producing due to reducing the bloat and recovering renal activity.
10. 3rd day, another water change. Also, replace the salt and redose the metronidazole (full dose). If the fish looks to be well on the road to recovery you can offer a small feeding each day.
11. Another water change on the 3rd day. No meds but, I'd recommend the salt. You should be clear now.

This is the treatment I use on my africans, puffers, and my lungfishes/polypteridae. Knock on wood that it's worked every single time.

An old school method of treating bloat is with the use of epsom salt at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 gallons of tank volume. This method has been successful but, takes longer to treat than by using Metronidazole.

Note in the pics the abdominal distention caused by the bacteria and in a severe case, such as this, the scales are pushed away from the body.

Authors:
Oddball
Tokis-Phoenix

Discussion Thread:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=45617
 
Brandy, after I received your requests, I decided I will give you this one opportunity to post your updates here hence I am reopening this thread in your favor so any future correspondence will not be marred by negative thoughts.

To the other folks, please refrain from making negative posts. I am giving everyone here equal opportunity to express themselves constructively and we should be considerate to Brandy first by allowing him to post his updates before any of you react. I am sure he realized his mistakes just as we do. Any non-constructive criticisms will be dealt with accordingly.
 
Thanks Lupin!

Sorry to everybody else who might have been angry with me because of my laziness and irresponsibility.

So, for the RTCs, I have put them in a 400g tank, so the space problem won't be much of an issue for a year or so. Next year, I'll do something about it, but for now, let's not look so much into the future. Also, I've just hand-fed my RTCs yesterday with prawn meat (sliced). Yippeee!

Sadly, my BGK won't eat from my hand and is scared of me.... I'm still working on that, any suggestions on how to hand feed it?

My endlis are actually in a happy environment too! There are large rocks for them to hide and one empty space for them to eat. But i was actually wondering, for a 2" " endli and a 4" " endli along with a 2" " marbled goby, what is the minimum space required? (Please don't be angry with me, but I'm keeping them in a 10g tank for now. I will entertain all suggestions but I'm afraid that I can only buy a new tank in like 4 months time or like Christmas? Yes, I'll say that I'm giving it to one of my sisters but actually, I'll be "keeping" it for them, muhahaha)

Anyway, don't tell anybody but if my fish aren't suited for my tank, I'll throw them into the school pond if i can't return them to a fish farm. They'll probably eat those midget fat kois over there... haha
 
Brandybottle;3342306; said:
Thanks Lupin!

Sorry to everybody else who might have been angry with me because of my laziness and irresponsibility.

So, for the RTCs, I have put them in a 400g tank, so the space problem won't be much of an issue for a year or so. Next year, I'll do something about it, but for now, let's not look so much into the future. Also, I've just hand-fed my RTCs yesterday with prawn meat (sliced). Yippeee!

Sadly, my BGK won't eat from my hand and is scared of me.... I'm still working on that, any suggestions on how to hand feed it?

My endlis are actually in a happy environment too! There are large rocks for them to hide and one empty space for them to eat. But i was actually wondering, for a 2" " endli and a 4" " endli along with a 2" " marbled goby, what is the minimum space required? (Please don't be angry with me, but I'm keeping them in a 10g tank for now. I will entertain all suggestions but I'm afraid that I can only buy a new tank in like 4 months time or like Christmas? Yes, I'll say that I'm giving it to one of my sisters but actually, I'll be "keeping" it for them, muhahaha)

Anyway, don't tell anybody but if my fish aren't suited for my tank, I'll throw them into the school pond if i can't return them to a fish farm. They'll probably eat those midget fat kois over there... haha
I wouldnt count on being able to hand feed the knifefish. They are bery nervy fish which wont come out when there hands in the tank. Best just putting the food him for him and letting him eat it himself. Or at least wait untill hes much bigger than you might have a chance of handfeeding successfully.
 
But my black ghost is already like 8 " "!

Yipppeeee again. Today, my dad came back from overseas and saw my catfishes. He was surprised they grew so fast, haha. Then he gave me permission to put them into the 1500g pond with quite a few kois when they grew too big for the 400g pond!

That's mostly good but my dad doesn't believe that the catfish will swallow the really expensive kois in 1 mouth! Now that's really bad. I really don't want to let some $10 catfish eat some $500 kois... There is also a suckerfish in the pond (been in there for 5 years and it's huge). I'm afraid that the catfish will eat it... I'll put some pictures of the pond and the suckerfish on next time.


Brandy
 
Today I managed to hand feed my giant gourami, and i realized it had teeth only after i had touched it...

I need to ask how much to feed a redtail catfish because after eating what I am feeding them, their stomach starts to bulge...

And if you have hand-fed your BGK before, could you please tell me how you did it?
 
Brandybottle;3345237; said:
Today I managed to hand feed my giant gourami, and i realized it had teeth only after i had touched it...

I need to ask how much to feed a redtail catfish because after eating what I am feeding them, their stomach starts to bulge...

And if you have hand-fed your BGK before, could you please tell me how you did it?
Yepp, ive been bitten by a big giant gourami before, it hurts! With the redtail cats they dont have a scaley stomach they are scaleless so it does show a physical buldge after feeding like with pufferfish etc. and it shows more than a fish with scales would.

Brandybottle;3342430; said:
But my black ghost is already like 8 " "!

Yipppeeee again. Today, my dad came back from overseas and saw my catfishes. He was surprised they grew so fast, haha. Then he gave me permission to put them into the 1500g pond with quite a few kois when they grew too big for the 400g pond!

That's mostly good but my dad doesn't believe that the catfish will swallow the really expensive kois in 1 mouth! Now that's really bad. I really don't want to let some $10 catfish eat some $500 kois... There is also a suckerfish in the pond (been in there for 5 years and it's huge). I'm afraid that the catfish will eat it... I'll put some pictures of the pond and the suckerfish on next time.


Brandy
They do get big potentially the knifes but 14" is a good size for in captivity so i wouldnt expect to be able to hand feed it untill it hits around that sort of size and is settled and feels secure in its environment, most Apteronotus, Gymnotus and even the large Chitala species are very nervy reclusive animals
 
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