What species of cichlid are these?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The thing that sometimes exasperates me the most, with human egos with a God complex, when using color as a main motivator, is
it overlooks how God, or evolution, or mother nature (what ever you want to call it)
nullifies those millions of years of survival of the fittest that gauntlets, that creates robust, resistant, individuals, as opposed to the weak, suspect bacterially sensitive tank bred fish unable to survive if they are looked at sideways , the gauntlet real legitimate species must negociate to survive..
Such as these true blue Nimnochromis in the Great Lakes of Africa.
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By the way. Please advice me on what is the best water test kits for these cichlids and water condition: temp, pH, nitrate, nitrite, ammonia levels, etc. And what I need to know so I can better care of them. Thanks
 
By the way. Please advice me on what is the best water test kits for these cichlids and water condition: temp, pH, nitrate, nitrite, ammonia levels, etc. And what I need to know so I can better care of them. Thanks

I believe most people including myself use the API master test kit. I also use the KH/GH to get to know my waters hardness and ability to buffer. I have a private well with essentially liquid rock characteristics. I don’t have to worry about chlorine/chloramines but since I live in the country but I do get fertilizer run off occasionally from local farms, a few times per year depending on the rain I’ll get ammonia readings of 0.5ppm so as a best practice I use Prime/Safe every water change.

Your individual test results will ultimately determine your water change schedule frequency and amount. I don’t let any tank hit 20ppm of nitrates before I start changing water.

Here is the link to the test kit.

 
I believe most people including myself use the API master test kit. I also use the KH/GH to get to know my waters hardness and ability to buffer. I have a private well with essentially liquid rock characteristics. I don’t have to worry about chlorine/chloramines but since I live in the country but I do get fertilizer run off occasionally from local farms, a few times per year depending on the rain I’ll get ammonia readings of 0.5ppm so as a best practice I use Prime/Safe every water change.

Your individual test results will ultimately determine your water change schedule frequency and amount. I don’t let any tank hit 20ppm of nitrates before I start changing water.

Here is the link to the test kit.

Thanks, seem like API products are the go to products to keep my water tank clean, at least from what I have read from most fish keepers.
And so I bought this fungus cure as well. How effective is it? Can this help reduce fish trying to scratch it self on the side of the wall/rocks.

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I would test your water before you start using any chemicals for flashing as that behavior can certainly be attributed to poor water quality.
Water pH seems good. Though I change every 3 days quarterly. This scratching happens to one of the fish, I thought because either I introduced a new fish (marble vieja) or I recently started to feed feeder fish.
 
Water pH seems good. Though I change every 3 days quarterly. This scratching happens to one of the fish, I thought because either I introduced a new fish (marble vieja) or I recently started to feed feeder fish.
You say the PH is good but what about ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings. I’m confused with water changes every three days quarterly as it’s a contradictory statement. "Quarterly" refers to something occurring every three months, which is four times a year.
 
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