Drip system. Fool proof ?

[ragin_cajun]

Like Travis and Richard said.....it's just a drain for overflow in your sump. I use 3/4 inch PVC and a garden hose for mine. It's never not worked in 2-3 years now. The garden hose is looking pretty sorry, though.

You're DRIPPING water in the tank, at 2-3 gallons per hour, and so the overflow drain in the sump will trickle water down the overflow, through the hose, to the drain wherever it is.

So .... how likely is it that the garden hose will get completely restricted, and when will gravity stop working. It's really that reliable--has to be.

And, I'm well over 6 months on my filter cartridges right now, still no chlorine/chloramine in the drip.

 

[Drstrangelove]

Are they really fool proof?

Foolproof:
: so simple, plain, or reliable as to leave no opportunity for error, misuse, or failure

Clearly not.

If instead you mean, can a person with skills, instructions, experience, resources and time construct one that will work with a low or no failure rate for a considerable time, my guess would be yes.

 

[jaws7777]

Here you go Frank

Holy crap. Amazing set up.

 

[jaws7777]

Guys take a look and tell me how you guys woukd set this up.

Also im thinking the fresh water lines need to be on the opposite end of the sump from the drain line ?

I keep the running water level at the top of the lower tape mark.



Run the drains on one side of the sump and the drip lines on the other. Along this will and into the storage room. Tap into the cold/hot panel and run the drain into the sump pit ?


What level do i put the drain and drip lines ?

What do i need besides bulkheads ? I have a few 2inch and 1.5 inch bulkheads. I guess drip emitters? How many and are there specific sizes ? Im on well water so no concern for chlorine or anything.

 

[GoldFinger]

Guys take a look and tell me how you guys woukd set this up.

Also im thinking the fresh water lines need to be on the opposite end of the sump from the drain line ?

I keep the running water level at the top of the lower tape mark.
View attachment 1291019


Run the drains on one side of the sump and the drip lines on the other. Along this will and into the storage room. Tap into the cold/hot panel and run the drain into the sump pit ?

View attachment 1291020 View attachment 1291021 View attachment 1291022 View attachment 1291023 View attachment 1291024 View attachment 1291025 View attachment 1291026 View attachment 1291027
What level do i put the drain and drip lines ?

What do i need besides bulkheads ? I have a few 2inch and 1.5 inch bulkheads. I guess drip emitters? How many and are there specific sizes ? Im on well water so no concern for chlorine or anything.

I used a 1” bulkhead with 1” PVC and it works like a charm. Any size you have will work. Running the drain into the sump pump is fine but a floor drain would be ideal IMO. I used an upturned elbow in the aquarium sump drilled a bit higher than halfway and then push fit the 1” pipe to my desired water level, which is about 1/2” below my tallest baffle.

I didn’t bother running hot as 2GPH or less will not give your heaters difficulty, or at least hasn’t affected my water temp. I installed the drain in the sock/drain chamber of my sump and the drip in my second chamber with the heaters. As long as it’s dripping where your pumps are going to draw the fresh water in that direction and not strait out your drain I’d say your good.

I know your on a well but I would suggest installing a sediment filter and carbon anyway; either for your whole house or just the drip system. This would give me piece of mind and additional water clarity.

I can post some pictures if you want but everyone who has responded so far are more experienced than I.

 

[GoldFinger]

Here you go Frank

Beauty set up. I like your turning clips to keep your lid secure. No jumping Arowana on your watch!

 

[jaws7777]

I used a 1” bulkhead with 1” PVC and it works like a charm. Any size you have will work. Running the drain into the sump pump is fine but a floor drain would be ideal IMO. I used an upturned elbow in the aquarium sump drilled a bit higher than halfway and then push fit the 1” pipe to my desired water level, which is about 1/2” below my tallest baffle.

I didn’t bother running hot as 2GPH or less will not give your heaters difficulty, or at least hasn’t affected my water temp. I installed the drain in the sock/drain chamber of my sump and the drip in my second chamber with the heaters. As long as it’s dripping where your pumps are going to draw the fresh water in that direction and not strait out your drain I’d say your good.

I know your on a well but I would suggest installing a sediment filter and carbon anyway; either for your whole house or just the drip system. This would give me piece of mind and additional water clarity.

I can post some pictures if you want but everyone who has responded so far are more experienced than I.

Sure man pics are definitely welcomed.

I do have a whole home filtration system in place for nitrate removal and some other crap.

 

[jaws7777]

So supplies i need are emitters ? Where did you guys get yours ? Plumbing i guess pvc unions and a ball valve ? Pex line to run from the panel to the tank.


Im confused about the drain placement. Shouldnt it be above the water line ? New water comes in raises the water level, old water goes out the drain ?

 

[Bigfishnut]

I have a whole bag of drip emitters, I'll send you a couple. Drain goes as high as you want your water line to be. I run mine right at the top so I can maximize my sump volume. I run a 1.5" bulkhead for the drain so when the pump is turned off the sump can't flood over. Figure the bottom of the bulkhead is where your water level will stay.

 

[GoldFinger]

Holy crap. Amazing set up.

So supplies i need are emitters ? Where did you guys get yours ? Plumbing i guess pvc unions and a ball valve ? Pex line to run from the panel to the tank.


Im confused about the drain placement. Shouldnt it be above the water line ? New water comes in raises the water level, old water goes out the drain ?

I tried 3 different kinds of drip emitters and not a single one was accurate. I control the drip by using multiple 1/4” valves.

The first valve is a 1/4 turn brass hose bib which I use as a pressure regulator. Use an adapter(s) to go from the male thread to The second (John guest) valve which I adjust to get my desired GPH drip.

Finally a third JG valve which is used to shut the flow completely on or off. If I want to check my GPM I can shut the last valve without effecting my settings and put the 1/4 line into a bucket to test.

Drilling your bulkhead lower in your sump wall allows you some room to adjust your water level by adding the upturned elbow and just cutting a piece of pipe to the desired height.

ragin_cajun found a pretty cool 1/4” pressure regulator however I have not tried it yet.