Do you all drill and install bulkhead for the water lines ? Or could i just run them into the sumo near the pumps intake ?
Drip system. Fool proof ?
- Thread starter jaws7777
- Start date
I quoted tou guys to this thread as i didnt want to derail tht thread.
So its safer to use a regulator ver just straight up emitters ? Im on my last legs with floods according to my wife.
How would i connect all of this to the pex panel ?
Also whats the best method for hooking the lines uo to the sump ? Secure it and let it sit near the pumps intake or do i need to drill and use bulkheads ?
Cool so now i underatand what you guys mean by the upturned elbow. Thats whats sets the water level not the actual bulkhead.
Can you describe the 1st pic. Im guessing thats the fresh water line
Use both. The regulator is to ensure proper pressure so that the emitters are more accurate and you midigate the risk of blowing one off of the line from too much pressure.
As far as connecting them there are many approaches. Here are some pics of mine. I use RO fittings from bulk reef supply to build manifolds to adjust the GPH of my drip.
From the inside you can see one valve is closed off so that line doesn’t run. Adjustable from 1-16 GPH. This sump has legit 10k flow so the drip is sucked straight into the pumps.
Heated and dechlorinated at the how water heater. The recirculating pump goes in next and this wall gets painted and cleaned up.
Beautiful and well designed setup man. I REALLY like your setup. Thanks for sharing
From right to left:
Cold water into sediment filter followed by two carbon block filters.
The treated water is followed by a tee to a hose bib which I can use to clean or fill buckets and do larger water changes if and when required.
Lastly another 1/4 turn hose bib which has adapters to get to the 1/4” John Guest valves. The lie then runs to a 1/4” JG 90 as seen in picture two.
Thanks for the kind words. Your system is crazy! If I could make a suggestion wearing my plumbing hat. I would maybe use 1/2” pipe stays to secure your water lines and mixing valve and then use some 1/2” foam insulation to eliminate the condensation.
