Drip system. Fool proof ?

JK47

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Thanks for the kind words. Your system is crazy! If I could make a suggestion wearing my plumbing hat. I would maybe use 1/2” pipe stays to secure your water lines and mixing valve and then use some 1/2” foam insulation to eliminate the condensation.
Suggestion much appreciated and I agree. The PEX is only interim, like I mentioned I am overhauling this setup soon. The hot will be an issue as well when the recirculating pump goes in. I have to move this setup to the left 12” and will hardline to the mixing valve at that time. Nixing valve to filter housing will still be led though
 

jaws7777

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Use both. The regulator is to ensure proper pressure so that the emitters are more accurate and you midigate the risk of blowing one off of the line from too much pressure.

As far as connecting them there are many approaches. Here are some pics of mine. I use RO fittings from bulk reef supply to build manifolds to adjust the GPH of my drip.

View attachment 1291278

From the inside you can see one valve is closed off so that line doesn’t run. Adjustable from 1-16 GPH. This sump has legit 10k flow so the drip is sucked straight into the pumps.

View attachment 1291282

View attachment 1291281

Heated and dechlorinated at the how water heater. The recirculating pump goes in next and this wall gets painted and cleaned up.

View attachment 1291280


View attachment 1291279
Amazing set up. Ok makes sense. Is there a particular regulator you recommend.

What is your concern with pex ? I was planning on using pex on mine. Also how do you suggest i secure the fresh water lines to the sump ? Over the top and in ?

Im also confused on the amount of regulators/emitters i would need.
 

JK47

Retired MFK Admin
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Amazing set up. Ok makes sense. Is there a particular regulator you recommend.

What is your concern with pex ? I was planning on using pex on mine. Also how do you suggest i secure the fresh water lines to the sump ? Over the top and in ?

Im also confused on the amount of regulators/emitters i would need.
No particular regulator I would recommend. Just make sure whatever you get is of decent quality.

Securing is pretty simple. Try to avoid putting pressure or bends on quick disconnect fittings or they can leak. A simple pvc elbow to hold it in place is easy/cheap.

The regulator is just the one. It’s to set the pressure of the whole system.

The emitters are per tank. I can’t tell you how many to use but I would recommend only one until your confident with drip systems. They come in 1, 2, 4 GPH and pretty much any other if you search online so using only one emitter should be easy to do.

Decide how much water you want dripped per day, devide that by 24 and buy an emitter close-ish or precise to that flow. The whole system is pressurized. The emitters allow a certain GPH from that pressure. Example: 50 gallons per day / 24 = 2.08. A single emitter at 2 GPH will hit close enough.
 
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jaws7777

Probation Member
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No particular regulator I would recommend. Just make sure whatever you get is of decent quality.

Securing is pretty simple. Try to avoid putting pressure or bends on quick disconnect fittings or they can leak. A simple pvc elbow to hold it in place is easy/cheap.

The regulator is just the one. It’s to set the pressure of the whole system.

The emitters are per tank. I can’t tell you how many to use but I would recommend only one until your confident with drip systems. They come in 1, 2, 4 GPH and pretty much any other if you search online so using only one emitter should be easy to do.

Decide how much water you want dripped per day, devide that by 24 and buy an emitter close-ish or precise to that flow. The whole system is pressurized. The emitters allow a certain GPH from that pressure. Example: 50 gallons per day / 24 = 2.08. A single emitter at 2 GPH will hit close enough.
Awesome thx man. So the pex can be glued to pvc fittings ?
 

jaws7777

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Another dumb question how do you guys decide in what psi the regulator should be ?
 

GoldFinger

Jack Dempsey
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PEX cannot be solvent welded. It’s attached via clamps. The PSI should be set to 25-50 PSI for the drip emitters to function properly
Agreed. Buy or rent some pex crimpers otherwise they make push fit (sharkbite) fittings for 3x the price.
JK47 JK47 have you found the regulators and emitters to be accurate?
 
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importracer

Fire Eel
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Are they really fool proof ? What can go wrong and cause a flood ?

Also what equipment determins when and how much water is drained ? What is responaible for filling and what stops it at a certain level ?

How do tou determin where to drill the sump ?

Im in well water so i dont need any filters just a safe means of removing and adding water.
I'd try a drip system on a small tank first
 

JK47

Retired MFK Admin
MFK Member
Aug 4, 2008
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Agreed. Buy or rent some pex crimpers otherwise they make push fit (sharkbite) fittings for 3x the price.
JK47 JK47 have you found the regulators and emitters to be accurate?
Accurate no, usually close though. That’s why I say “ish” on my GPH statements. The goal is minimal nitrate so close is usually sufficient
 
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