Fish Room Build Thread

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The rays are settling in fine. They are extremely active during daylight hours and when hungry. The aro is eating very well but a bit skittish. He's jumped several times and lost scales at least on two occasions. He not afraid when I'm near the tank but instead he's very curious. It almost like he look for my fingers and what I do ? but for example when I open the door to the room quickly he jumps. I think he chasing water drops on the cover sometimes when he jumps since I still got the white plastic on my acrylic lids.

I'm still in the process of dialing in the feeding and WC. I try change 20% every day but usually every 1.5 Days on average since my drip is still not installed.
Great stuff. The aro will settle more over time, but yes they can still jump if you approach the tank but they don't see you coming.
 
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Progress pics

A little progress.
My plumber was redoing a couple of my mistakes. I added a separate shut of valve for incoming water for the DRIP. Changed out some threaded connections. Unfortunately the last connection leaked so I will either try to replace the o-ring or we have to change it again. Two steps forward, one step back. As soon as this is done I will change 27,9% water per day which will be sufficient. I don't power feed and I change around the same amount manually every two days now, which I'm getting quite tired of.

In all my joy last time I wrote I forgot the tank was not in final position so I had to bring in the moving company one last time to move it just about 1 foot closer to the wall. It did slip quite easy but still it's over 1000 pounds empty.

I started with the plumbing to set up a bean animal drain. I have never had an overflow before so this is quite daunting. Anyways the numbers are as following

Primary siphon to water level in overflow: 6"
Emergency pipe: 1,25" below overflow box
Open channel: 1,5" below weir height

Do I need to add dual 90s to the primary or could I just leave it straight?

Please note all pipes are dry fitted and not necessarily sanded.

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Tomorrow I will dry fit the plumbing below the overflow box.

I'll use membrane valves for fine tuning on both the primary and open channel, with "built in" unions followed by a piece of clear piping for visual indication (same clear pipe for emergency). I will then add sweeping 90s to maximize flow and end the plumbing with flexi hose down into the roll filter to ease up maintenance.

I plan on making this plumbing unsupported since the bulkhead is horizontal.

Any suggestions?

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I don't have experience with this level of design/construction to offer advise or criticism. I just think what you are doing is awesome!
The background is simply fantastic and all the plumbing seems very well thought out and a major undertaking.
Super sweet! Thanks for sharing and good luck with the final touches. I look forward to seeing it in operation.
 
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Do I need to add dual 90s to the primary or could I just leave it straight?
Technically you could leave it straight if you want but the dual 90 turn the intake back down towards the bottom helps to prevent a whirlpool and air getting sucked into the drain.
 
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Technically you could leave it straight if you want but the dual 90 turn the intake back down towards the bottom helps to prevent a whirlpool and air getting sucked into the drain.

I figured that was the reason but my overflow box is tight as a mf due to space constraints and my want for 8 feet long tank. I have as said around 6" from water level to pipe and could basically go without pipe to avoid a vortex.

Will 6" be enough with 1,5" pipe drain?
 
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