Sump and Plumbing for my 535. Need help

jaws7777

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Interesting stuff here guys.

It shouldn’t be more than $20 but it’s peace of mind. Your looking for something to sandwich between the bulkhead flange and tank wall/hole. I had four of these cut to make union seals and it was $27. That’s no pilot hole, router and smooth cut. They do the work for you.

View attachment 1306731
What company is it that cuts them out for you ?
 
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Fish Tank Travis

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Ok, I might be missing something here, but is there any reason why you can’t just use a 1” bulkhead and then use reducing slip bushings to reduce the size to 3/4”?

If the plumbing is already lined up, you could cut some of it out and use vinyl tubing to make up for the misalignment. I just don’t think I would trust that 3/4” bulkhead in a hole meant for a 1” bulkhead.

Also, I noticed a few pages back that you guys were talking about valves on the lines. I would definitely recommend putting valves on all of the lines between the tank and the sump. I think JK47 JK47 mentioned he does it for reasons of needing to do work on the lines. This is exactly why I did it on mine. I have a valve on all three of the drains and on both of my returns. If I didn’t, then I would have to drain about 1/4 of the tank before I could do any work on my drains or returns. With the way they are now, I can just close the valves and do all the work I want. It came in really handy when I first set it up because I changed a lot of stuff around before finaly finding a setup that worked how I wanted it to.
 

DN328

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Ok, I might be missing something here, but is there any reason why you can’t just use a 1” bulkhead and then use reducing slip bushings to reduce the size to 3/4”?.
I too thought this once I better understood what was going on. Also if you were to go with the acrylic washer idea, could you leave as one O piece rather than C? I must be missing a key point.
 
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JK47

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I too thought this once I better understood what was going on. Also if you were to go with the acrylic washer idea, could you leave as one O piece rather than C? I must be missing a key point.
Left as an O he would have to remove the bulkhead to put it on. If he is going to do that he should swap out to a larger bulkhead. I thought he was trying to salvage an existing cemented bulkhead. I may be confused though.
 

mrrobxc

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I’m torn. I like the washer idea but I don’t know that I’ll have enough piece of mind.

The other thought is cutting it all out, replacing all the bulkheads with new ones and putting a schedule 80 3/4” bulkhead on the bottom hole since they are thicker and take it from there. It’ll be a pain in the butt to do but I’ll sleep better at night.

Project delayed another week. Oh well.
 

mrrobxc

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Just placed an order with BRS.

Decided to cut it out and redo with a schedule 80 bulkhead on the bottom hole, ABS kn the top two. I will use the manifold I just cut off as the template for the new one I’ll build. It will be a perfect fit.

Thanks again JK47 JK47 for the tutorial. Just figured it’s worth redoing. That way I can make a cleaner manifold too.
 
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jaws7777

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I ran into aa different issue but similar witht tank. I opted to rip out the bulkhead (cememnted) and re do it. Peace of mind is priceless
 
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mrrobxc

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I ran into aa different issue but similar witht tank. I opted to rip out the bulkhead (cememnted) and re do it. Peace of mind is priceless
Agreed. It’ll be a pain but I think it’s worth it long term.
 

mrrobxc

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Schedule 80 3/4” bulkhead worked perfectly and the manifold looks much cleaner this time around.

Will be finishing the back piping for the sump, tighten up the bulkheads and then move on to painting the stand.

ED0E9C79-F554-4BA9-B1C6-8CB263E8E0C0.jpeg F1869693-AC85-4451-A7EA-AEB63568C4D4.jpeg 84E10B8B-2895-4DEF-A38A-C0C8B049DCCF.jpeg C7BDF67B-7632-4A2C-96A8-A7C81DC0126A.jpeg 7727A075-B0DE-43D9-A0E6-B009A234049D.jpeg
 
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