Please help... panicking

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
skjl47 said:
Aquarium cycling link

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/nitrogen_cycle.html

These next two are different

https://www.petcha.com/controlling-ammonia-in-a-fish-aquarium/


http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html
Click to expand...


Maybe I'm not saying it correctly but not meaning that the water is adding new nitrites. Rather that adding new water is simply not giving the tank it's needed time to finish cycling? Her point was that not doing a change gives more time for the nitrites to convert to nitrates and build up more BB. And once the nitrites naturally hit 0 then my tank will be fully cycled. So if that's not the case how else would I go about removing the nitrites? You're saying doing water changes but I have been doing very regular water changes, and the nitrites are super high. So guess I'm seeing both of your points but still confused on the best route to fix this. Thanks again for helping out so much.
 
Also thanks for the links I am going to read them asap. I have done a ton of studying though. I'm not super experienced but very knowledgeable for my level I think.
 
Changing the water, if your tap has no ammonia/nitrite/nitrate means you dilute the toxins.

You need filter media from an established tank AND/OR live plants which will help your cycle even if you don't keep them long term.

I understand but your person is saying. They don't want you to mess with the equilibrium and the ecosystem too much. But if you're fish are panting and they're stressed - you need to get that out of the aquarium.

It is very normal tank maintenance to do a 50% water change a week. I don't think that was your problem. I think you may have added too much stock at once, and/or overfed for a new aquarium. Especially with the strips leaning you wrong. It's an easy mistake to make.

Certain fish should not be added to a newer aquarium. Wild caught fish are one. I think your rope fish actually gave you a lot of good information, unfortunately. :(
 
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Ok, I completely understand what you're saying. Not trying to seem argumentative or unaccepting of help, only trying to confirm and gain knowledge. So if in the sense that changing the water will reduce the nitrites, I am not understanding why it has not done that already? Like when I did a %50 change the other day. Also, if I do say another %50 change, would the cycle still not need to raise ammonia/raise nitrite/convert nitrite into nitrate in order to complete a full cycle? So if I change half the water again and the nitrites are still the same then what!? Seeing as how I have done 50% weekly that is why I'm confused that the nitrites are so high. So basically I'm confused, if I do that again and they stay the same as they have been, what else can I do? Apparently the cycle is not done because there are so many nitrites, but if I remove all the nitrites how can the cycle finish? Is what I'm asking making sense? Thanks again magpie, very much.
 
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So everything I've been reading is agreeing with you guys that doing water changes helps dilute it. So now you guys and the internet have told me that. The largest fish store in Dallas Tx told me not to. Another popular store here told me use prime. One said don't. My head is about to explode. If %50 water changes aren't lowering nitrites, do I need to do them more often? More water? What do you suggest?
 
ok whoa hold the phone. This thread has WAY too much misinformation in it....







1. Your tank was NOT cycled if you have nitrites, period. Theres no resetting the cycle with a 50% water change unless your tank wasn't cycled to start. I do 50-75% water changes weekly on all 3 of my tanks and have never had a mini cycle/crash/etc etc etc. If a water change is upsetting the cycle that means you have either ammonia or nitrite in the water as it stands and you aren't cycled.




2. Prime is great if you have city water, and also a good emergency tactic when you have an uncycled tank killing fish like yours. Use Prime BUT stick to the dosage on the bottle...also buy a bottle of seachem stability or tetra safestart+ to help move this cycle along...




3. Unless you are on a drip system water changes are absolutely necessary.
 
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duanes said:
Since your tank is not cycled , water changes every day would not be too much.
Beneficial bacteria live on surfaces, water changesdonot remove them.
And most LFS employees are clueless.
Click to expand...
this. thank you for stepping in lol...my head hurt reading through this one haha. That's not a stab at you OP, its hell when you are new to this and think the pet stores are a good source of info...they aren't.
 
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