Help with sump set-up
- Thread starter GoldFinger
- Start date
Yes, he runs the sump for his saltwater tank in his basement so noise isn't an issue. He wanted to be able to easily change out polyfill. I actually built the tank for the sump. It's 48×12×12 . Had to build it to fit a tight spot. Reused trim from taking apart a couple old 55's
I just recently set up a bean animal and love it, its totally silent, easy to set first adjustments. Most of all the wife doesn't have to worry about much while im at work Lol. The pluming was really simple aside from the fact I didn't use regular bulkheads, I used shower drains which are 2", so I had to neck down to 1-1/2" I don't know what difference it makes but mine runs beautifully.
Looks very good.
A few things I would change though:
First, reduce the size of your sock chamber from 16" to 10-12". It won't change anything as far as functionality and will give you more room elsewhere.
Next, increase the size of your pump chamber from 16" to 24". This will give a decent amount of extra water volume in case some parts of your sump start running slow, evaporation, etc.
Finally, I would drill holes in the bottom of the first baffle that separates the sock chamber from the media chamber. Either a row of large holes across the bottom or a pattern of small holes. This will cause the water to have to flow up through the media to get over top of the next baffle.
Otherwise, things are looking great!
Would it really matter using those holes or even raising the first baffle to have the water flow underneath unless my media was packed right against the baffle? Otherwise the water will just flow into the chamber and just flow everywhere regardless of how it gets into the middle chamber no? I appreciate all your pointers and will be using them.
The thing I'd change is the baffle positions, have the water flow under the first baffle and then under the baffle exiting the media chamber. This will maximize your flow thru your media which will be on the bottom. Water follows the path of least resistance, so it will just flow over the media instead of thru it with your design. Look close at the baffle placement on the pics of the sump I posted, you'll see what I mean
Hey guys my starphire glass has arrived and the guys will be building the aquarium this week! They are asking for final design from me and I'm hoping you guys can chime in once again. The returns have to be 3" from the top and sides of the aquarium for safe drilling and I assume the closer to the top corners the better for me. The ghost overflow will likely need to have the weir right at the height of the rim so I can have the waterline maxed out at the bottom rim of the tank if possible. Does this make sense? I have attached a drawing for a slight reference. The other option would be to have the overflow closer to the left or right corner. Any thoughts on locations would be appreciated
---
---
Looks fine to me. The returns will be lower, but you can use pvc elbows to raise the return up to the water level and then drill a siphon break hole. It's the same way mine is setup. I would recommend that you not glue the fittings that are inside the tank. Just compression fit them and leave them pressed together. This way you can change them up.
As far as the baffles go, I think you can simply raise the first one up instead of drilling holes in it. If you do have your media raised on an egg crate platform, which I recommend, then I see no reason to change the second set of baffles. The water will just upflow through your media and then over the next baffle. Just be sure to leave at least an inch, but preferably two at the top of your highest baffles so that water can bypass over them in the even of a clog.
